#2458 $1,250 Sold
Satin damask trained afternoon gown, 1890s
A wealthy lady in the late Victorian world of opulent self-indulgence had to adhere to the dictates of fashion. A special ensemble was required in each of her varied social roles—morning wrapper, receiving dress, visiting dress, formal attire, etc.; and a maid to dress the lady was essential. This extravagant gown was worn for receiving guests in the home in the afternoon.
The gown is fashioned from substantial weight satin damask, richly patterned with sprays of roses. The front panels of moss green velvet are embellished with floral appliqués of silk and bronze metallic floss. The neckline and cuff flounces are of beige chemical lace. The floral design (8th picture down) is executed with consummate artistry. We can only marvel at the refinement and delicacy of the lifelike roses.
The three-dimensional bow detail on the back bodice point draws attention to the graceful sweep of the long skirt train. Above the elbow, the sleeves are ruched and full. The bodice is boned and lined with cream colored silk taffeta. The dress closes in front with hooks. The bodice, too small for the mannequin, is not meant to seem as low cut as in the pictures.
The skirt is lined with copper colored silk taffeta; the train is lined with ivory satin. The skirt and the lining both have buckram stiffening and inside hem ruffles. The skirt closes in back with hooks.
On the buckram is a handwritten note sewn to the front of the lining, near the hem. The note has the name of the original owner, which unfortunately I cannot make out. The label on the petersham reads "Mme. R. Katze/57 West 35th St, New York."
The condition is almost excellent. There is no damage to the exterior thanks to the sewn-in underarm pads. The lining of the bodice has a few small splits but is stable and is not shattering. The skirt lining has been patched at the top near the waist. These are minor flaws.
The bodice measures: 34" bust, 26" waist, and 17" from shoulder to front hem.
The skirt measures: 26" waist and 39" center-front length.