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Irish crochet coat



#2765 $2,300

Irish crochet/wool coat, c.1905

The sumptuous coat came from a New England estate along with other couture items from the same period. The original owner, a wealthy American, probably made the grand tour in Europe, shopping at the finest Paris couture houses. We recently sold a Callot Soeurs dinner dress owned by that same collector.

Our super luxe coat was purchased at Francis & Co. (Paris). It is an exemplar of early Edwardian style. The Irish crochet flowers are bold and gutsy; the wide angel-wing sleeves are so dramatic! To appreciate the masterful design, zoom in on the superbly executed Irish crochet flowers.

An Irish crochet design is assembled from individual motifs with the textural appeal of three dimensional raised work. Handmade Irish lace garments do not have unsightly seams. The shape of the garment is built in with the assembly of the separate motifs.

Made from ivory cashmere wool, the opulent coat is so well preserved that it still has the original black silk georgette behind the Irish crochet. Georgette backing is usually the first thing to go. The shoulders and upper sleeves are lined with ivory satin. The coat closes in front with concealed hooks.

Irish crochet played an important role in fashion history. The European craft of crochet achieved an aesthetic pinnacle in Ireland, where crochet artists used 17th century Venetian needlepoint laces as inspiration. The quintessential Irish lace is Irish crochet, already famous in 1743 when the Royal Dublin Society awarded prizes for outstanding examples.

The condition is almost excellent. There are a few small moth nibbles and several splits in the satin lining at the shoulders. The coat makes a superb display as is.

It measures: 60" circumference, 46" center-back length, and 50" center-front length.

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