#4113 $1,950Art Nouveau appliquéd coat, c.1900
Art Nouveau emerged as a reaction against the mechanized world of the Industrial Revolution and outmoded historical revivalist styles. Art Nouveau revisited natural organic forms, incorporating sensuous curves and elaborate flourishes.
In women's fashion, fine Art Nouveau pieces are very hard to find today. With its labyrinthine appliquéd floral motifs (exemplary Art Nouveau), this distinguished piece is a rare and valuable treat for the serious collector.
The appliquéd design combines braided trim with stylized flowers, whose raised petals resemble those in Brussels Duchesse lace. Peasant-style, hand-embroidered accents in red add whimsical freshness to the intricate curvilinear motifs.
The coat is fashioned from beige melton wool. The matching satin lining is faced around the neckline and front opening with borders of beige machine lace. The pleats in back are stitched down across the yoke for a smooth fit. The coat closes in front with concealed hooks.
The complex braided trim (military officer)—especially on the sleeves—together with the concealed front opening (Mandarin official) give our coat a quasi-official or clerical connotation, like the costume of a high priestess of fashion.
Our splendid appliquéd coat combines dignity, mystery, and majesty in equal proportions.
The condition is almost very good. The coat is structurally sound despite a few moth nibbles. I can overlook them for such an important example of Art Nouveau design.
It measures: 44" bust; flared below; 17" from sleeve cap to sleeve cap; 21" sleeve length;and 37" from shoulder to hem.