#1744 $1,200Deco devoré velvet coat, c.1925
By the mid 1920s, fashion had moved away from nostalgic Art Nouveau images to more streamlined Art Deco styles. The use of primary geometric forms is characteristic of Art Deco, which reached its apogee in the mid 1920s.
Our coat artfully combines a boldly graphic Deco design with plush devoré velvet to mesmerizing effect. The hard edged design appears to float over a great depth of field. Here the 3-dimensional effect is even more compelling than in Hanae Mori's evening dress.
It is in the ingenious "see-through" effect that we see the hand of the master. Faithful to Deco principles, the design features geometric motifs (rectangles and trapezoids) as both positive and negative (fabric and cut outs) design elements.
The hand-knotted silk fringe on the hem and sleeves is a design detail beloved by the flamboyant flapper. The brilliant coat is totally lined with matching silk chiffon and closes at the neckline with a hook.
This coat's incandescent beauty will envelop the wearer in a romantic nobility, perhaps because of the traces preserved of a vanished era. Like the fires fixed by a great colorist from the sun burning through the impermanence of the atmosphere, our dazzling coat radiates an intimate and mysterious splendor.
Although velvet was first made from silk in the Middle Ages, the devoré technique was invented in France only about 100 years ago. It uses a chemical gel to dissolve cellulose plant fiber, leaving shadows of silk chiffon amid deep velvet pile. Devoré velvet became all the rage in the 1920s and is just now making a comeback.
The condition is very good. On the lining are a few worn spots, which do not show when worn. This is reflected in the price.
It measures: 52" circumference; and 43" from shoulder to front hem, including the fringe.