#1884 $1,950
Adrian two-piece crepe evening dress, c.1942
Gilbert Adrian, the most important costume designer in film history, was head designer at MGM in its glory years, 1928-1939. More than any other costume designer, Adrian created and sustained Hollywood glamour through inspired and innovative costuming of the great female stars: Greta Garbo, Joan Crawford, Jean Harlow, Judy Garland. He proved that high-style fashion for American women did not have to originate in Paris.
Adrian performed design magic: his costumes enhanced the character portrayed on screen but were always glamorous. That design philosophy also guided Adrian, Ltd., the fashion house he created in 1941 after leaving MGM. (He left after a screaming argument with studio head Louis B. Mayer over the costume designs for Greta Garbo in Two-Faced Women. No one ever won an argument with L.B. Mayer.)
The look of the dress is stark and dramatic, conveying the stylish sophistication for which Adrian-garbed characters were known. Made from expensive heavy-weight crepe, the dress hangs perfectly. I love the use of diagonal seams, rather than the usual darts, to shape the bust area; the seam placement creates a fluid sculpture from fabric.
The bodice closes in back with a metal zipper. The only adornment is the oversized black silk faille bow on the skirt. The skirt has a side slit that goes almost up to the bow. The skirt closes with a metal side zipper. Our sophisticated dress is the personification of Hollywood glamour.
Provenance. This rare Adrian evening dress was acquired directly from the daughter of the original owner, who purchased it in the French shop at Filene's/Boston. The gown is a labeled Adrian Original.
The condition is almost excellent. The only problem is faint spotting at the back neckline. The spot is barely visible; I did not notice it until I turned on bright photography lights. The side seams were taken in to make the gown smaller. The design has not been altered, and everything else is original.
The bodice measures: 36" bust, 30" waist, 38" hip, and 26" from shoulder to hem.
The skirt measures: 25" waist (the waistband, which was taken in, can be let back out to 27"), 38"
hip, and 41" length.
