#2393 $1,450
Metallic lace and satin damask coat, c.1918
The craze for Orientalism in Western fashion (1910) focused attention on the decorative textile arts of the East. First came the interpretations of Eastern styles from French couture houses. Then authentic Oriental pieces for lounge wear imported by stores like Liberty & Co. made a splash on the fashion scene. The fabulous caftan-style coat is an exemplar of the genre.
The caftan style, derived from Middle Eastern cloaks, was embraced by the fashion cognoscenti of the early 20th century. An ethnic motif added drama and mystery to the design and warranted the sophistication of the wearer. A friend recently showed me an old, out-of-print book on fashion history. I did a double take when I saw pictures of Jean-Philippe Worth dressed in exotic ethnic costumes.
The splendid coat is fashioned from black and silver satin damask, woven with a Japanese-style pattern of birds in flight. The wide, loose sleeves are bordered with silver metallic lace, which has the burnished glow seen only in real metal fibers.
The hem is bordered with ball fringe. The open sides are connected with bars of buttonhole-stitched, silver thread. There are no closures.
The draftsmanship of the birds in flight, eagerly searching for food (2nd picture from bottom), is executed with great artistry. There is a sense of the urgent, ardent quest that is at the heart of all life.
The condition is excellent and wearable. The coat, relined with black silk, shows gentle wear.
It measures 50" circumference and 45" from shoulder to hem, excluding the ball fringe.
