#c334 $2,200
Kimono-style tea gown, c.1905
Elegant tea gowns were worn by society ladies in their homes before dinner. They could relax with loosened corsets hidden under the flowing designs. When Orientalism swept the fashion world, loose Eastern garments were adapted to be worn as tea gowns. Many were imported and sold by Liberty & Co. in London.
Oriental garments for the Western market are eagerly sought today by collectors as evening wear. This fine piece was made from Japanese fabric, probably in a Tokyo kimono shop for export to the West. The style was adapted for Western tastes, while retaining traditional Chinese sleeves. The sash is more like a scarf than an obi. Without the traditional padding, the gown is lightweight.
The kimono is fashioned from very pale peach (almost beige) silk crepe and is lined with matching silk crepe de chine. The kimono is skillfully hand embroidered with trailing vines of wisteria in shades of lavender and green.
The exotic floral design has a magic as potent and restorative as the deepest slumber. The leaves have the haunting verisimilitude of nature in full bloom. The ends of the sash are finished with hand-knotted silk fringe.
While ethnic styles are the height of fashion, you can go one better with this magnificent kimono-style coat from 1905: the quality and style is greatly superior to modern imitations. You will make a spectacular entrance wearing the kimono over a slip dress.
Ethnic clothing is one fashion trend from 100 years ago that is making a comeback. I recently saw a picture of Jean-Philippe Worth dressed in exotic ethnic costumes. It was common among fashion cognoscenti of the early 20th century to have collections of historic ethnic textiles; and to dress in them; and to party in them, e.g., the 1002 Nights Ball given by Paul Poiret on July 24, 1911.
The fashion forward of the time were fascinated by ethnic textiles. Mariano Fortuny's collection of ethnic textiles was legendary. The ground had been prepared for the craze for Orientalism which hit Paris in 1909 with the arrival of the Ballets Russes. Understanding the role of fashion in Western culture takes us a long way to understanding our own culture.
The condition is excellent and wearable. The kimono has been cleaned.
It has a circumference of 58" and is 56" long. The sash is 108" long(excluding the fringe) by 13" wide.
