#1866 $2,950
American rural indigo cotton print dress, c.1795-1810
Indigo dyed textiles have been prized since antiquity for their permanent deep blue. The patterns, printed with resist techniques, have a distinctive look. (Designed areas are pretreated to resist penetration by the dye.) The indigo plants and dying technique came to Europe from India in the 16th century.
The indigo crop, which requires a warm climate, was established in the American colonial South in 1740. Soon, large quantities of indigo and raw cotton were being shipped to England to be converted into printed fabric. Indigo was one of the most profitable colonial exports.
After the Revolutionary War, Britain's ban on sharing textile knowledge with the Colonies was lifted. New England textile mills were then able to produce indigo prints. The technique was also widespread across Europe. I have found similar print samples documented as either English or French (1790-1820). When our dress was made, America was still trading primarily with England, and the American mills were just getting started. Hence, this fabric is likely English.
American rural clothing in good condition is very difficult to find. The garments were generally worn until they disintegrated, when they were cut up for rags and quilts. Many collectors interested in early American history especially value these pieces for their rarity and historical associations.
The dress has the high-waisted bodice typical of this period. Notice the similarity of blue and white plaid bodice lining to two other documented American pieces, the open robe and the stays. The dress is totally hand sewn and closes in front with a drawstring on the skirt.
This dress was purchased from a private New England collection. The oral provenance says that it came from an Amherst, New Hampshire estate.
The condition is almost excellent. The only problem: a few small splits in the bodice lining.
The bust measures 31" with the fronts just touching. The waist is adjustable using the drawstring. The length is 49" from the shoulder to the hem.
