#1573 $2,200
Silk taffeta dressing gown with Chinese hand embroidery, 1870s
By the middle of the 19th century, the decoration on boudoir attire (dressing gowns and slippers) had become more elaborate, allowing stylish "ladies undress" to sometimes be viewed in semipublic indoor settings.
This exquisite wrapper with its train and bustle back is a perfect example of boudoir attire that retains elements of street dress. A lady could be relaxed without her corset, yet still wear the fashionable bustle shape.
The dressing gown was made either in China for the Western market or in the West from imported fabric. The Chinese hand embroidery is magnificent beyond compare. The exquisite artistry of the embroidery can be seen on close examination of the details: the true-to-nature, pregnant petals and the subtle color transitions from the green-gray leaves to the gray-mellon petals.
The front and skirt of the dressing gown are covered by a profusion of floral bouquets and flying insects, executed in silk floss and couched metallic cord. Surface couching of metallic floss that is too abrasive to pass through the fabric is an ancient Chinese technique.
The dressing gown is fashioned from regal purple silk taffeta and is totally lined with aqua silk. The color is spectacular. There is no fading.
The wrapper closes in front with Chinese corded frog closures. A matching corded belt with end tassels ties at the waist. The gown is cut to accommodate a bustle—see the bottom picture of the interior. The skirt forms an elegant train in back.
The condition is very good to excellent. In the fabric, I found two small splits that are knife clean—there is no shattering. The splits are stable and not obvious, so I do not consider them a serious flaw. One split is on the bodice front, and the other is in back near the bustle.
The lining has been patched around the neckline. As my clients know, I generally do everything that can be done to bring fine vintage clothing to its highest and best condition; or else I adjust the price accordingly. Taken together, the flaws are minor. The dressing gown displays beautifully.
Here we have an implicit collaborative process between the couturier’s hand and the beholder’s eye. The former has laid down suggestive elements—stunning color, masterful embroidery, boudoir style design—while the imaginative observer has assembled them in her mind to make a coherent aesthetic whole.
It measures: 38" bust, 16" from sleeve cap to sleeve cap, 20" sleeve length, and 56" from the shoulder to the front hem (longer in back).
