#1654 Sold
Vionnet velvet/ermine cape, 1920s
Madeleine Vionnet's intellectual approach to fashion made her the couturier's couturière. Her fashion house was not a large merchandising establishment with prodigious output. Yet because of her innovative techniques, she became the most influential couturière of the 20th century. In addition to the invention of the bias cut in 1922, she popularized the halter neck and the cowl neck.
She described the basis of her work as "the direction of the material: the weave, on the one hand; precision, cut, proportion, balance, on the other." Her geometric approach to design produced garments that needed no decorative elements other than a perfect cut.
A student of Classical Greek design, Vionnet invented new ways of cutting, though few had the skill to emulate her technique. Respecting the three-dimensionality of the body, Vionnet designed by draping on a one-fifth scale model mounted on a revolving platform.
Her sculptural method of designing in the round later evolved into her famous bias-cut dresses, adopted by all the major couturiers who followed her. We associate the bias cut with Hollywood glamour because her innovation underlies the design of the gowns worn by the most famous celebrities and film stars of the 1930s.
Vionnet garment's are very rare. (This is the only one I have owned). The velvet cape from the 1920s illustrates her evolving style. The typical straight 1920s shape is modified in back with draping made possible by the supple quality of the silk velvet.
Extensions from the ruched shoulders form a large, softly draped bow at the back of the neck. The bow is more than decoration; it forms an ingenious cape-collar. The front opening is trimmed with white ermine.
The ivory satin lining is finely quilted with hand stitched animal designs. I love this touch of whimsy hidden inside, where it will not detract from the strong statement of shape.
Vionnet (1876-1975) learned her trade from the ground up, entering the profession as a seamstress at age 11. She mastered sewing, cutting, and draping techniques, becoming première d'atelier at Callot Soeurs in 1900 and chief designer at Doucet in 1907.
She opened her own fashion house in 1912 and dominated haute couture in the 1930s. Her work defined the cutting edge of fashion until she finally closed her house in 1939. Through her native genius, Vionnet became the unsurpassed engineer in garment construction or the most brilliant "dressmaker" ever, to use the humble term she preferred.
The condition is very good. The exterior is perfect. Sadly, the lining needs conservation. This is reflected in the price. I hope the cape goes to a buyer who will preserve Vionnet's design by copying or backing the lining rather than relining the cape with plain fabric.
It measures: 40" bust and waist, 48" hip, and 46" from shoulder the hem.
