#2722 $1,800
French embroidered satin evening coat, c.1912
This dazzling coat is fashioned from heavenly rose-colored satin. The surface is almost totally covered with scrolling embroidery of soutache and silk floss. The coat is totally lined with pewter colored satin—see the detail picture of the inside pocket below.
The unstructured style, based on a traditional ethnic design, transcends time. It is fresh and vibrant, like a designer piece created this year. And yet there is also a connection with one of the high points of 20th century fashion, when Orientalism exploded onto the late Edwardian fashion scene.
Until the 1909-1910 seasons of the Ballets Russes in Paris, the color palette of high fashion had been under the influence Art Nouveau. The favored color combinations were complementary pastels, like pale pink with dainty lilac or eggshell blue with lime green.
After the enormous success of Leon Bakst's designs for the Ballets Russes, the fashion palette was turned upside down. Vivid, clashing colors (orange, green, rose and purple) became the rage. With its vivid rose hue, we can date the coat from the beginning of the new fashion era; even though there are still design elements characteristic of late Nouveau design—the intricately detailed patterns of curving lines.
The new trend in all the graphic arts was termed Orientalism. Evening coats, based on the loose unstructured drapery of the kimono, were a favorite theme in French couture just before WWI. The scrolling, curvilinear design is an Oriental motif.
The coat was imported from Paris for an upscale Philadelphia store. The label reads "Strawbridge & Clothier/Philadelphia/Paris."
The condition is excellent and wearable. I found a few signs of gentle wear.
It measures 64" around and 46" from the shoulder to the front hem.
