#6355 $6,200
Couture quality beaded satin gown, c.1888-1900
This wonderful Victorian gown is probably from one of the great French couture houses. Unfortunately the label was removed and replaced with a Boston store label—see the bottom picture. Couture houses like Worth sold certain designs to American stores, but without documentation we cannot know for sure the exact origin of this masterpiece.
The gown was purchased directly from a New England estate 20 years ago and has resided since then in a private collection. The gown has never been seen on the market. It is unaltered and all original.
Whatever the origin, the couture quality is unmistakable. The gown is lavishly decorated with exquisite three-dimensional, hand-beaded embroidery that "speaks" couture to the viewer. The embroidered paisley design artfully combines chenille yarn with padded, high-relief beading. The richness of the decoration on this grand gown is amazing!
The gown is fashioned from high quality ecru satin damask. I love the stylized foliate design. The contrasting beads are opaque white glass. The front of the skirt features alternating rows of beaded tulle and delicate beige floral lace. The keyhole neckline and sleeves have lace insertions that can be gathered with inserted silk ribbon.
The bodice is boned and lined with matching cotton sateen and closes in front with hooks. The skirt, lined with lightweight cotton, has pleated satin hemline ruffles on the outside of the front and pleated dust-catcher lace ruffles on the inside. The skirt has a metal band across the inside of the back to hold the shape.
In 2004 I consulted with a top authority on French couture, who told me that a couture label was all to the good, but that the garment itself was more important than the label. If this gown had a label from Pingat, the master of surface decoration, the price would be far higher. Yet without the label, the value is unchanged. "A rose by any other name smells as sweet."
Here is a couture masterpiece from The Opulent Era in which art has exhausted all its invention, and wealth offered all its resources.
The condition is almost excellent. The gown has a few minor flaws that do not detract from its beauty. Each armhole has a small break in the silk; there is a small brown spot on the skirt (see the picture of the back); and some of the white beads around the keyhole neck opening are missing.
The gown was photographed on a mannequin that measures: 30" bust, 22" waist, and 32" hip.
