#2387 $850
Hand-stitched cotton peignoir, 1850s-60s
The peignoir is completely hand stitched in the manner of earlier garments. Although the sewing machine was invented in the 1830s, it came into wide use only in the late 1860s. Fashioned from white cotton broadcloth, the exceptional peignoir is sturdy and washable. Its elaborate detailing is a rare treasure for the collector.
The front opening, neckline, and sleeves are decorated with intricately ruched ruffles with trapunto cording. The bodice seams are outlined with self-covered corded piping. Self-covered, embroidered buttons decorate the sash ties.
The wide sleeves anticipate the popular pagoda-sleeve style of the Civil War period, as do the cartridge pleated full skirt and dropped shoulders. The peignoir closes at the waist with inside ties. The decorative sash has hidden ties under the wide tie ends.
"Trapunto" means "to embroider." The design is outlined with two or more rows of running stitches and then padded from the underside to achieve a raised effect. The style originated in the 14th century in Sicily and was widely adapted for clothing in Tudor England, then brought to America by the new settlers. The technique was always considered very elegant.
The condition is almost excellent. The buttons on the ties have some wear—see the picture below. On one sleeve is a mend that is difficult to detect and does not spoil the appearance of the peignoir.
It measures: 46" bust and waist, full skirt, 19" from shoulder seam to shoulder seam, 21" sleeve length, and 57" from shoulder to hem.
