#1846 $1,900
Metallic embroidered silk pocketbook, mid 18th century
Fine hand embroidery was both an art form and a status symbol in the 18th century. Embroidered designs of gold and/or silver, which required great skill to execute, were generally done by a professional embroiderer for an aristocratic customer.
The subtle color scheme of the pocketbook is brought to life by a marvelous variety of texture in the embroidery. The design features flattened strips of silver that are couched. These are combined with ropes of silver bullion, silver chain, satin stitches, and silk floss satin stitch. In person, the silver catches the light and glitters.
In the couching technique, strips of metal are placed on the surface of the cloth and secured with overcast stitches. Couching is used in metallic embroidery because the metal threads are too harsh to pull through the delicate silk fabric.
The pocketbook is fashioned from muted turquoise silk damask and is lined with aqua silk. The color was probably much brighter when new. The pocketbook was purchased from a private New England collection and has no known provenance.
It should be remembered that early18th century New England did not even pretend to the egalitarian culture and ideals of the post-Revolutionary War period. By 1730, New England had a smattering of very wealthy families, who could have afforded such an expensive pocketbook.
The condition is very good. There are several splits in the silk lining along the folded edge and a few spots where the silver cover of the thread has worn off the inner silk core—see the picture below.
It measures 8" by 6 1/2" when opened.
