#2592 $1800
Satin damask bustle gown with provenance, c.1876
Bustle gowns make a dramatic statement. The gown is from the first bustle period, generally thought to be the most graceful. While the eye is drawn to the back of the draped skirt, the silhouette does not have the centaur shape of the 1880s.
With a sweeping train and brilliant gold color, this gown dazzles the eye. Worn in 1876 by Harriet Louise Gorman, the gown comes with a signed letter documenting its history. The gown was purchased from Harriet's great great granddaughter. The ambrotype photograph below of Harriet as a young girl in 1854 also comes with the dress.
The gown is fashioned from luxurious gold and ivory satin damask woven with a pattern of floral sprigs and medallions. The sleeves have above-the-elbow pleated flounces. The fine floral design conveys the refinement and delicacy of the Rococo period.
The neckline and sleeves are bordered with multiple rows of ivory satin bias cording. The bodice and scalloped skirt hems are finished with ivory binding. The overlapping front bodice is attached to the skirt at the sides.
The gown is of one piece in back. The train has a large ruched loop in back to hold the skirt up when dancing (either the waltz or the two-step). The bodice is boned and lined with brown cotton twill. The skirt is lined with ecru polished cotton on top and window pane cotton on the train.
If there is a disjunction in your mind between the youthful Miss Gorman in the ambrotype and the rich and sophisticated woman who wore our grand gown, consider the chronology. Harriet Gorman in the ambrotype looks about 16, a sweet and inexperienced young girl. In 1859 at about age 21, she married Harvey Officer. In 1876, Mrs. Harriet Gorman Officer was 38 years old.
Which of you is the same woman at 38 as at 16? (Take a look at a snapshot from your "sweet sixteen" party.) One can fairly assume that Miss Gorman made an advantageous marriage to a wealthy and generous husband and that they moved in the most exalted social circles. What we know about America of the 1870s and the gown itself lead to these conclusions.
First, this spectacular gown would have been very expensive in the 1870s (or at any other time, for that matter). Second, there were very few venues in America of 1876 where such a grand gown could be worn: Mrs. Caroline's Astor's ballroom in New York, to be sure; but not a church social in Cincinnati.
The condition is almost excellent. The back lacings, all original, are fraying. They can still be used but must eventually be replaced. Suitable long lacings will be available at a corset supply company. Also, the skirt hem flounce is lightly soiled. These are minor flaws for a gown with sensational design and otherwise in excellent condition.
It measures: 36" bust, 28" waist (extended on the inside petersham), 40" hip, 14" from shoulder seam to shoulder seam, 15" sleeve length (including the flounce), and 57" from shoulder to front hem.
