#7257 $750
Signed, hand-embroidered jacquard shawl, 1860s
Large square shawls were popular in the mid 19th century because they could be worn folded on the diagonal with the points spread out over a large crinoline skirt. Here the borders are reversed from front to back on two sides so that all borders appear the same when the shawl is folded.
The brilliant multi-colored shawl features a cream colored wool ground signed in two places. Both signatures show when the shawl is folded on the diagonal. The patterned jacquard borders are hand stitched to the ground. They are edged with delicate hand embroidery along the ground as well as hand-embroidered, fringed gates on the outer edge.
The complex Persian-style design evokes the exotic places where one could luxuriate in pleasure: Port Said, Shanghai, Turkestan, Constantinople--all lands of sad, haunting music and many odors, where lust could be a mode of life, where the shades of night skies and sunsets reflected the moods of passion, which had the color of lips and poppies.
The condition is very good. There a few tiny holes near one of the signatures. The cream colored ground has darkened slightly along the center fold line. These are very minor flaws that do not spoil the appearance.
It measures 64" square.
