#1840 $2,200
Embroidered American deerskin slippers, c.1820s
These important American slippers (or moccasins) were found in Maine. According to Nancy Rexford in Women's Shoes in America, 1795-1930, "[deerskin] moccasins were made not only by American Indians for sale to tourists, but also by white Americans and worn by both men and women as boudoir slippers and carriage shoes."
The slippers are featured on p. 67 of Jonathan Walford's authoritative book, The Seductive Shoe, where they are described as Native American deerskin moccasins from the 1820s. Although they have the European shape rather than that of the traditional moccasin, Indian moccasins from the 1780s already show a European design influence. These Indian moccasins are likely Santee Sioux.
Because of their rarity, these uniquely American moccasins are an important early clothing artifact. Most early shoe styles produced in the Colonies were hand produced and generally worn until they died; very few examples survive.
The deerskin slippers are hand embroidered with a chain stitch pattern of abstract florals. Since the back side of the embroidery is covered, we cannot tell if the chain stitch was done with a needle or a tambour hook.
"Tambour" refers to a technique that uses a frame to hold the fabric taut. The frame is used in conjunction with a hook ("the tambour hook"), which resembles a crochet hook. This greatly speeds up the chain stitch compared to the old method, which used only a needle to do the embroidery. At Vintage Textile, we often use the words "tambour" and "chain stitch" interchangeably, because the result is a chain stitch.
The upper edge is bound with navy silk ribbon. The inside is lined with ivory cotton, and the sole is lined with linen. The soles are leather. The round toes and peaked throats indicate an earlier date of 1820-30, though the lavish decoration implies 1840-50.
It was at this time that James Fenimore Cooper's Leatherstocking Tales captured the imagination of the young American nation. The five novels (1823-1841) recount the adventures of frontiersman Natty Bumppo, known as Leatherstocking or the Pathfinder. As a little girl growing up in New York, not far from Cooperstown (where the novels are set), my favorite of the Tales was The Deerslayer (1841).
In the 1740s, Leatherstocking lived a life of freedom in the wilderness of New York with his Indian companions, as together they fought a rear-guard action against the advance of civilization. These handsome deerskin slippers must have been a treasured reminder to its owner of a romanticized frontier life, fast fading from view.
Walford documents the common use of moccasins by North American women. Anne Langton writes (1840) in A Gentlewoman in Upper Canada: "Footwear...was generally moccasins...and over these another pair of moccasins for out of doors." Godey's Lady's Book (1861) illustrates a moccasin, calling it a "carriage shoe"; but it looks like an Indian moccasin attributed to the Iroquois.
The condition is good. As you can see in the pictures, these slippers must have been favorites, because they are well worn. Deerskin, which gently molds to the foot, is known for its exceptional comfort; hence, the well worn condition.
The slippers are 8 3/4" long.
