#1375 $2,400
White Howard & Co. fancy jacket c. 1893
Possibly from Worth! The House of Worth was known to have sold to a few select stores, including White Howard & Co. There are compelling reasons to attribute this jacket to Worth: the use of the hollyhock floral pattern is signature Worth; the abundant exuberant surface decoration that doesn't leave any unadorned space is also typical of Worth. Good design in this style is difficult to achieve—in the hands of a master like Worth, "too much" is just enough.
Whether or not the jacket is from Worth, it is couture quality. It is fashioned from the high quality fabrics typically found in couture. Note the expert mirror imaging of the floral pattern on the center back, including the stand-up collar. The dusty pink satin sleeves and bodice front are shadowed with overlays of black Chantilly lace.
I love the jet black beading on the collar and wrists. The skirt part of the center back has an open vent that is framed with inserts of Chantilly lace. The draped Chantilly lace insert on the lower center front is topped with an appliqué of jet beads. The collar has been wired to stand erect. The bound seams of the unlined jacket are boned. The hem has sewn-in weights.
The condition is very good to excellent. There are a few minor flaws but nothing that spoils the design integrity. The flaws: minor splits in the Chantilly lace; one underarm and one seam of the under bodice have been reinforced where the fabric split.
It measures: 38" bust, 29" waist, 40" hip, 24" sleeve length, 14 1/2" from shoulder to shoulder, and 30" from the shoulder to the hem.
